Beginner's Guide to Choosing & Wearing Corsets
Beginners to the wearing of authentic corsets may find themselves confused by what they find online. This is nothing to be ashamed of - corsets are sized with an unfamiliar method, there are so many different styles, so many different companies offering steel boned corsets at such wildly different prices! Where does one start?
This guide is designed to give the beginner a comprehensive jumping-off point to the world of corsetry, but is by no means completely definitive. If you are unsure if corsetry is for you, and particularly if you are aiming to start waist training, it is imperative to do your research. Waist training is a body modification and as such should be undertaken with the same a degree of care that one might choose tattoo artists or a piercer!
CONTENTS
This guide is designed to give the beginner a comprehensive jumping-off point to the world of corsetry, but is by no means completely definitive. If you are unsure if corsetry is for you, and particularly if you are aiming to start waist training, it is imperative to do your research. Waist training is a body modification and as such should be undertaken with the same a degree of care that one might choose tattoo artists or a piercer!
CONTENTS
- Who Can Corset?
- Why Corset?
- Choosing Your First Corset
3a. How to Determine if a Corset is Suitable for Tight Lacing / Waist Training
3b. Ensuring Good Corset Practice - Lacing Up & Lacing In
4a. How to Put on and Close A Corset
4b. Removing Your Corset
4c. How to Put Laces In A Corset
Who Can Corset?
Whether you want to corset or not, and if so what you want our of corseting, is a highly personal choice. You should not, however, feel that you cannot wear a corset for any sort of superficial reasons like age, weight, or even gender! My corsetry mantra is, simply put, "Corsets are for everybody but not for every body!"
In essence, I believe that there are no age, weight, height, or gender restrictions on corsetry - anyone can wear corsets, be they short, tall, fat, thin, old, young, male, female, or anything in between. Corsets are suitable for everyone - however, this does not mean that everyone is for suitable for corsets.
One should approach corsetry with the same degree of care and consideration as one would any sort of body modification like tattoos or piercings - even if you do not intend to waist train or tightlace. Whilst corsets are, despite the myths, safe and comfortable to wear, one must realise that there are always exceptions, and people with certain medical conditions may find they cannot and should not be wearing corsets.
I am not a medical professional, please consult your doctor if you are unsure. As a general guide, those with any sort of condition that can be exacerbated by increased pressure in the abdomen should be careful when attempting to wear corsets: weak or brittle bone conditions; prolapses; certain kinds of hernias; some lung conditions; some stomach conditions; some blood pressure conditions. I, for example, have Crohn's Disease, and I am completely unable to wear corsets during a flare up as it is simply too painful. The rest of the time, however, I quite comfortably wear corsets with a considerable (4 to 5 inch) cinch! Listen to your body and to your doctor.
It should also be noted that many conditions can be helped by the wearing of corsets - migraine sufferers often find corsets help extend their spine and reduce the frequency of migraines; some people with ADHD and similar conditions find that their corset provides a kind of 'deep pressure therapy'; many people with back pain or spinal / skeletal conditions like Scoliosis and Ehler's Danlos have found that corsets support their bodies far better than medical braces! Take a look at this guide by Lucy Corsetry for more information.
As an addendum, it is my own and many other corsetieres' opinion that you should not begin waist training or tightlacing until you have stopped growing; while corseting can absolutely be very safe, your bones during your teenage years have not yet finished growing nor have they reached the strength and density that they will have as an adult, and it is simply better and healthier to allow them to do so first. For this reason I will not take orders for tightlacing / waist training corsets from those under 18 years old, and caution young people in general to be careful, as these days we continue to physically mature well into our early 20s
Why Corset?
There are many reasons someone may choose to wear a corset, and the reason you choose to wear them is entirely your choice. What you want out of corsetry will inform what type and style of corset you should choose, so think carefully before you take the plunge!
Some people simply like the look of corsets for very occasional fashion wear, and they're not concerned about training their waist or wearing their corset daily. While it is entirely possible to wear an authentic tightlacing corset only occasionally (I do!), someone who is not concerned with a high degree of cinch may find it best to choose a Fashion Corset - sometimes called a 'costume corset' - or a similar fashion item such as a basque or bustier. These look like corsets and may well be laced up at the back, but are usually made with cheaper and less hard-wearing materials, and are boned with plastic. They're also much cheaper, and are also a great place to start if you're unsure about taking the plunge on a more expensive steel boned piece - though plastic, and unable to cinch you as tightly, a fashion corset may be a good place to start if you want to try out how a corset will feel.
Others pursue corsets as a means to achieving an accurate silhouette in historical costume. Be this for reenactments, for theatre, or any other reason, one should look for a corset appropriate to the historical era they are trying to represent.
Others still may want to use the corset, like the history re-enactors, as foundation garments or shapewear. Those who require gentle shaping only may find fashion corsets more than suitable, but others may prefer the hardwearing nature of steel. Overbusts, too, provide the dual function of creating curves and smoothing the silhouette, and also supporting the bust - many people with larger busts find they are more comfortable in corsets than in bras, as a corset pushes up rather than lifts up. No more bra straps to dig into the shoulders!
Many people now wear corsets for health reasons. As stated above, many people with back and other skeletal issues have found that corsets provide excellent support - even more so than medical braces. Some orthotists have now even started recommending corsets to their patients, and many scoliosis patients have reported the success of corsets in the correction of their spinal curvature - not least because a fabric corset is both more breathable and more beautiful than solid plastic medical braces. There are several specialist corsetieres who offer asymmetric corsets specially for such patients.
Lots of people have found that they lose weight when they begin waist training, as the corset acts like a kind of external, far less invasive 'gastric band' that restricts the size of the stomach, thereby regulating food intake. Some people have started to use corsets specifically to aid weight loss, and there is now such a thing as the 'corset diet' which claims to be endorsed by doctors an dieticians. However, I tend to agree with Lucy of Lucy's Corsetry on this issue: a corset is a garment, not a diet, and is never, ever a substitute for exercise and healthy eating - merely an aid. You can read Lucy's excellent article about corsets and weight loss here.
The primary reason to start corseting is, however, likely to be waist training or tightlacing. That is, a significant reduction in the size of the waist, either temporarily while wearing the corset, or permanently, through the consistent, daily use of corsets to reshape fat pad morphology and the lower ribs - whether it be to assist the return to one's pre-pregnancy shape or simply to accentuate the shape of the body. This process tends not to be about weight loss, but rather a specific body modification to create a curvier shape, not necessarily a thinner one.
Whatever your reasons, do your research, and buy the corset that is best for your needs.
Some people simply like the look of corsets for very occasional fashion wear, and they're not concerned about training their waist or wearing their corset daily. While it is entirely possible to wear an authentic tightlacing corset only occasionally (I do!), someone who is not concerned with a high degree of cinch may find it best to choose a Fashion Corset - sometimes called a 'costume corset' - or a similar fashion item such as a basque or bustier. These look like corsets and may well be laced up at the back, but are usually made with cheaper and less hard-wearing materials, and are boned with plastic. They're also much cheaper, and are also a great place to start if you're unsure about taking the plunge on a more expensive steel boned piece - though plastic, and unable to cinch you as tightly, a fashion corset may be a good place to start if you want to try out how a corset will feel.
Others pursue corsets as a means to achieving an accurate silhouette in historical costume. Be this for reenactments, for theatre, or any other reason, one should look for a corset appropriate to the historical era they are trying to represent.
Others still may want to use the corset, like the history re-enactors, as foundation garments or shapewear. Those who require gentle shaping only may find fashion corsets more than suitable, but others may prefer the hardwearing nature of steel. Overbusts, too, provide the dual function of creating curves and smoothing the silhouette, and also supporting the bust - many people with larger busts find they are more comfortable in corsets than in bras, as a corset pushes up rather than lifts up. No more bra straps to dig into the shoulders!
Many people now wear corsets for health reasons. As stated above, many people with back and other skeletal issues have found that corsets provide excellent support - even more so than medical braces. Some orthotists have now even started recommending corsets to their patients, and many scoliosis patients have reported the success of corsets in the correction of their spinal curvature - not least because a fabric corset is both more breathable and more beautiful than solid plastic medical braces. There are several specialist corsetieres who offer asymmetric corsets specially for such patients.
Lots of people have found that they lose weight when they begin waist training, as the corset acts like a kind of external, far less invasive 'gastric band' that restricts the size of the stomach, thereby regulating food intake. Some people have started to use corsets specifically to aid weight loss, and there is now such a thing as the 'corset diet' which claims to be endorsed by doctors an dieticians. However, I tend to agree with Lucy of Lucy's Corsetry on this issue: a corset is a garment, not a diet, and is never, ever a substitute for exercise and healthy eating - merely an aid. You can read Lucy's excellent article about corsets and weight loss here.
The primary reason to start corseting is, however, likely to be waist training or tightlacing. That is, a significant reduction in the size of the waist, either temporarily while wearing the corset, or permanently, through the consistent, daily use of corsets to reshape fat pad morphology and the lower ribs - whether it be to assist the return to one's pre-pregnancy shape or simply to accentuate the shape of the body. This process tends not to be about weight loss, but rather a specific body modification to create a curvier shape, not necessarily a thinner one.
Whatever your reasons, do your research, and buy the corset that is best for your needs.
Choosing Your First Corset - General Tips
Once you have decided why you want to corset, your next step is to decide what kind of corset you would like - the why really does dictate what you should be looking for!
At the most basic, there are underbust and overbust corsets, which come boned either in plastic or steel. If you simply want a corset for part of a costume, for casual wear for a night out, or simply to look nice in, there is no reason at all that you shouldn't buy that cheap, plastic boned fashion corset that you spotted in store. These items are not designed for lots of cinching and instead are simply cut to clothing sizes, but they can smooth out the body, accentuate your curves, and are still cute too. Plastic or steel boned fashion corsets can also be used to simply practice wearing a corset - less restrictive, and with less cinch and therefore less pressure, they can nevertheless be used as a 'starter corset' to allow you to get used to how it feels to wear such a garment before taking the plunge and buying a more expensive tight lacing piece.
If you are looking to waist train, you must look at a corset with steel bones, and also one that is specifically designed for waist training. A cheap fashion corset with steel bones will be harder wearing than a plastic boned piece, but will still be cut to fashion sizes and will not give a dramatic enough cinch to waist train with. Training is also generally considered to be easier and safer in an underbust corset, as one must wear the garment for many hours, often whilst working and moving around, and an underbust is simply less restrictive. Tight lacing overbusts exist, but one should realise that an overbust corset will restrict movement, and the expansion of the ribs, more than an underbust would.
On the other hand, tou do not need to be a serious waist trainer to wear a 'real' corset, but because of the nature of these garments it is important to do your research before cinching in - waist training and tight lacing is a form of body modification and should be undertaken with care. With patience, careful consideration and an informed approach to cinching, a steel boned corset may indeed be far more comfortable than the modern first time wearer would expect.
At the most basic, there are underbust and overbust corsets, which come boned either in plastic or steel. If you simply want a corset for part of a costume, for casual wear for a night out, or simply to look nice in, there is no reason at all that you shouldn't buy that cheap, plastic boned fashion corset that you spotted in store. These items are not designed for lots of cinching and instead are simply cut to clothing sizes, but they can smooth out the body, accentuate your curves, and are still cute too. Plastic or steel boned fashion corsets can also be used to simply practice wearing a corset - less restrictive, and with less cinch and therefore less pressure, they can nevertheless be used as a 'starter corset' to allow you to get used to how it feels to wear such a garment before taking the plunge and buying a more expensive tight lacing piece.
If you are looking to waist train, you must look at a corset with steel bones, and also one that is specifically designed for waist training. A cheap fashion corset with steel bones will be harder wearing than a plastic boned piece, but will still be cut to fashion sizes and will not give a dramatic enough cinch to waist train with. Training is also generally considered to be easier and safer in an underbust corset, as one must wear the garment for many hours, often whilst working and moving around, and an underbust is simply less restrictive. Tight lacing overbusts exist, but one should realise that an overbust corset will restrict movement, and the expansion of the ribs, more than an underbust would.
On the other hand, tou do not need to be a serious waist trainer to wear a 'real' corset, but because of the nature of these garments it is important to do your research before cinching in - waist training and tight lacing is a form of body modification and should be undertaken with care. With patience, careful consideration and an informed approach to cinching, a steel boned corset may indeed be far more comfortable than the modern first time wearer would expect.
HOW TO DETERMINE IF A CORSET IS SUITABLE FOR TIGHT LACING / WAIST TRAINING
- If a corset's size is given in dress sizes it is not suitable for waist training or tight lacing. Corsets sized in dress sizes may be very nice garments and you should not at all dismiss them as 'bad', but a corset made to standard dress sizing is probably not going to have much shape or cinching power. These items are great for fashion and costume wear, however, and can be very beautiful.
If you are looking for a corset for waist training or tight lacing, absolutely avoid any corset which is sized in dress sizes but claims to be for tight lacing or waist training - even if it has steel bones. It's a lie!
Be aware that there are some cheaper steel boned corsets which are sized in waist sizes but which are totally unsuitable for waist training. If you can, take a look at the corset in person, off a model - if the garment doesn't have a definite curve, it's probably not suitable for waist training.
The Little Blue Gem sells steel boned fashion corsets from the following prices:
- Underbust; starting at £25
- Overbust; starting at £35
- Underbust with Straps; starting at £35 - Likewise, if a corset is boned with plastic boning, it is absolutely not suitable for waist training or tight lacing. Plastic boning simply isn't strong enough and is intended only for light shaping. Under high stress it tends to buckle or even break, rendering it useless for any dramatic shaping, and plastic can become softer and bend permanently due to the heat of the body. Plastic boning was originally designed to support the hoops of skirts, give light shaping and support to the bodices of dresses, and to support the cups of brassieres - it was never intended for corseting when it first became available!
However if all you want out of a corset is a pretty garment, and you don't care about more dramatic shaping, a plastic boned fashion corset may well be the thing for you. Don't dismiss them as entirely worthless, for they most certainly are not!
The Little Blue Gem sells a plethora of plastic boned fashioned corsets from the following prices
- Underbust; £18
- Overbust; £20
- Underbust with Straps; £18 - A good steel boned corset will have a more dramatic 'hip spring' - the waist will be noticeably smaller than the hips, creating a dramatic curve. Cheaper steel boned corsets exist, and while these items can be very beautiful and are great for casual fashion wear and costume, many of them will not offer much in the way of shaping - the shape of the fabric pattern pieces is far more important than the boning for this; you can have as many steel bones as you like, but you will never get a good shape with a corset that does not have much curve to it. These items are completely unsuitable for waist training due to their lack of shape. Corset Story, also known as CorsetUK, are one such supplier - these items are by no means worthless, but have very little curve and are made with substandard boning.
All steel boned corsets handmade by The Little Blue Gem are cut to a high standard and with great curves; our starter corsets are designed to give up to a 4" reduction out of the box! - First time wearers of authentic corsets should choose a corset with a closed waist measurement a few inches smaller than their natural waist. Although all of us vary slightly, your waist is always softer and far more squashable than the ribs above it and most certainly the hips below it. This is because real corsets have a dramatic shape, and a corset with a waist measurement matching your natural waist will be too big around the hips and chest. The idea is to CINCH, after all, and good corsets will be sized by bust/underbust/waist/hip measurements, NEVER dress sizes!
As a rough guide, my natural waist is 28 inches, and I wear a corset made by myself with a 24 inch closed waist - and can even wear a 22 inch corset if I am wearing an hourglass style and therefore not putting any pressure on the ribs. I do not waist train at all, though I do tight lace occasionally, and I often wear my corset over several hours for fairs and other events with little to no discomfort. I do find hourglass corsets far more comfortable, and I am unusual in that I have a fairly small natural waist that is also fairly squashable, and many people of my size may find they can't cinch to the same degree (particularly if they have a muscular torso) but hopefully these numbers should demonstrate the above point!
Compare the measurements of the ribs and hips of the garment to your own natural measurements, too. They should match as close as possible - too-small measurements around these areas can be uncomfortable at best, painful at worst, as they can nip, pinch, and create bad pressure points.
You can compare the measurements of our standard size corsets on our Corsetry Sizing page. - In addition, when looking at the measurements of off-the-rack corsets, check to see if the corset is intended to be worn closed or with a gap in the back, at the laces. This will influence how the measurements match your body; if you are 32" around the ribs and a corset intended to be worn with a two-inch gap measures 32", it is too big for you (as 32" + 2" gap = 34" ribs), but a corset with a rib measurement of 30" should fit you.
Similarly, if a corset is meant to be worn closed at the back, make sure it is not too small - a corset with 36" hips that is meant to be worn completely closed may get pretty uncomfortable on a person with a 40" hip measurement!
You also may be able to get away with a slightly smaller rib measurement, as ribs are flexible. It is imperative, however, that the corset fit you at the hips, as your pelvis is rigid and a too-small measurement in this area can cause painful pressure points. Keep in mind, however, that some people find that they CAN compress the hip area slightly, if they are fleshy - flesh compresses, bone does not! If you are fleshy here you may find that you can afford a couple of inches.
- There is a difference between Tight Lacing and Waist Training. By necessity, all waist trainers tight lace, but not all tightlacers waist train. Some companies use the terms interchangeably, but this is not accurate.
Tight Lacing can be defined as a significant reduction in waist measurement whilst wearing a corset. Some people define this as a 4" reduction, but ultimately it is dependent on each individual's 'squishiness'. I am able to reduce my waist between 3" and 5", but someone with a smaller natural measurement (or a more muscular waist!) may have difficulty; conversely, someone with a larger waist measurement may find a 4" reduction doesn't make much difference, and that they can cinch much more than that very comfortably. Personally I would describe a tightlaced measurement as one which is challenging to lace down to, but not uncomfortable or painful. If you're in pain - you're too tight!
Waist Training on the other hand is a significant reduction in waist measurement whilst wearing a corset, which is worn on a frequent daily basis, with the specific intention of either a) reducing the natural waist or b) reaching a certain corseted waist measurement. Lucy of LucyCorsetry defines waist training as "achieving moderate to high reductions in a corset for long durations (months or years) with the intention of reducing one’s natural, uncorseted waist – whether by indirect means (e.g. weight loss), or by direct means (e.g. altering muscle, ribcage and/or fat-pad morphology)."
Lucy also has an excellent article about the differences between Tight Lacing and Waist Training here. - In addition, I am completely happy to discuss your options with you in store.
ENSURING GOOD CORSET PRACTICE
When wearing corsets, and especially when waist training or tight lacing, it is imperative to maintain good wearing practice. It may sound silly to some - after all, a corset is just a piece of clothing! - but one must remember that waist training is a form of body modification and should be treated with the care and respect that you would approach any body modification. You would do your research before getting, and would continue to take care, of a piercing or tattoo, so approach waist training, tight lacing, and general cinching with a similar level of care and consideration. Corsets absolutely are safe to wear, but only with safe wearing practice.
In addition, you should read Caring For Your Corset to learn how to look after the garment when you're not wearing it.
Please read the following pointers carefully:
- Your corset absolutely SHOULD NOT hurt you. If your corset is painful to wear, you are doing something wrong. Any of the following things could be true:
- your corset is too small for you. As mentioned above, a corset that is too small for you around the ribs or hips can pinch or cause your ribs to ache.
- your corset is too curvy for you. If you struggle to cinch the corset in without discomfort or pain, but you find that otherwise the hips and ribs fit you comfortably, the corset 's dimensions are simply too dramatic for your individual body. Choose a corset with a less dramatic spring.
- you're cinched in too tightly. DO NOT try to cinch in fully immediately - cinch in a little and allow your body to get used to the corset, then untie your laces and cinch in more later if it starts to feel loose. You should also wear the corset for short periods of time to begin with, to allow your body to get used to it.
- you've been cinched in too long. Loosen up or remove your corset. It may be that you simply need to 'wear it in' more (this process is calling 'seasoning' and you can read more about it in the next section and on the Caring For Your Corset page), or it may be that your body isn't suited to long wear. Everyone is different; listen to your body.
- the shape / style of the corset isn't right for you. For example, if you have issue with the corset bones digging in you may find that you need a slightly different cut of corset. If you find that too much pressure on your lower ribs is very uncomfortable, you may find an hourglass style that cups rather than compresses the ribs more comfortable. If you find that the lower edge digs into your thighs when you sit, or the top edge digs into your bust (in an underbust) or into the crease of your armpit (in an overbust) the corset could be too long for you. - Similarly, if you can't breathe you are doing something wrong!
This is one of my pet peeves as both a corset maker and wearer. There seems to be an assumption that a corset will or even should restrict your breathing; stories given by actresses about corsets they had to wear in movies which cite how uncomfortable and restrictive the corset was can often be theorised to be for this reason - bodies that are not used to wearing corsets being cinched far too quickly into tiny garments, who then have to perform in them!
A corset is going to put some pressure on your lower ribs and prevent them from expanding fully - that is the nature of the garment. However, it should not be so restricting as to prevent you breathing. - When you first receive your corset, you should 'season' the garment. 'Seasoning' refers to the process of wearing the corset over a few hours every day, cinching in very gradually throughout, as this allows the corset to get used to your body - and your body to get used to the corset. Think of this much like you would wear in a pair of shoes by wearing them for short periods around the house!
DO NOT try to force your corset and body cinch down to your corset's fully closed measurement immediately as this can damage the garment and can also be very uncomfortable for you! Seasoning or 'breaking in' the garment extends its life and makes it more comfortable to wear. Many of the painful/unable to breath/uncomfortable stories of corset wear are made by people who did not do the research and cinched in too much too fast.
Many tight lacers and waist trainers use the 2/2/2 rule - that is, two hours a day, for two weeks, at a two inch cinch.
You can read more about how to season and care for your corset on the Caring For Your Corset page. - In addition to seasoning, you should take note of how your corset is laced in case you ever need to relace it - which you almost certainly will - and learn how to put it on properly. It is important to master the process of closing a busk, which can be a fiddly process, as well as to know how to lace yourself in.
Most corsets will come already laced, and good corsets will come laced in the 'bunny ears' style; that is, criss-cross lacing with loops, or 'bunny ears', left at the waist. This style of lacing allows the corset to be laced by oneself, and also is most effective for cinching the waist, as the force of the cinch is centred directly on the waist. You do not need to remove the laces to cinch in; simply pull on the loops!
To get yourself out it is very important to loosen your laces before undoing the busk: you can warp or even break the busk by unfastening it first.
Read the section 'Lacing Up & Lacing In' below for a full walkthrough on how to lace your corset. - If you have any medical conditions that could be exacerbated by internal pressure, please consult your doctor before starting to wear corsets and particularly before starting to waist train. People with weak or brittle bones, prolapses, certain respiratory ailments, and so on may not be able to wear corsets comfortably or safely. However, you may be surprised at the sort of medical conditions that can actually be helped by wearing corsets - certain kinds of hernias and abdominal muscle weaknesses; hypermobility and ligament disorders like Ehlers Danlos; spinal issues such as Scoliosis; lots of anxiety disorders which benefit from deep pressure therapy; migraines; and more. Chances are if you were any kind of brace or pressure garment to aid with your condition, you could probably benefit from corsetry as well.
Lacing Up & Lacing In
Lots of fashion corsets are laced up with the ends of the lace at the bottom or top. The problem with this method primarily is that it is hard to tighten yourself - it's not necessarily bad, but there are better ways! If you purchase a corset from The Little Blue Gem, it will come already laced with one of the most common lacing techniques used in modern corsets - crossed laces with 'bunny ears'.
The 'bunny ears' method of lacing that leaves two vertical loops at the waist to pull and tie off. The bunny ears method is designed for ease of tightening when dressing yourself; simply pull the vertical loops at the waist - the eponymous 'bunny ears' - to cinch in. The loops are always at the waist, centring the cinching power at the point of highest tension, and this is where the corset is tied.
While it's always easier to have a friend to assist you, if you are going to be wearing corsets often, you should learn how to put it on yourself. You should also learn how to put laces into your corset, so that you can replace them if and when necessary.
The 'bunny ears' method of lacing that leaves two vertical loops at the waist to pull and tie off. The bunny ears method is designed for ease of tightening when dressing yourself; simply pull the vertical loops at the waist - the eponymous 'bunny ears' - to cinch in. The loops are always at the waist, centring the cinching power at the point of highest tension, and this is where the corset is tied.
While it's always easier to have a friend to assist you, if you are going to be wearing corsets often, you should learn how to put it on yourself. You should also learn how to put laces into your corset, so that you can replace them if and when necessary.
HOW TO PUT ON AND CLOSE A CORSET
Most modern corsets close with a busk - that is, a two part opening of flat steel with a 'pin' side and a 'loop' side to its clasps. Busks close by hooking the loops over the pins. This can be tricky at first as its an unfamiliar method of fastening; however, with a bit of practice it doesn't take long to get used to it at all.
This guide will take you through the process of lacing in with a standard cross laced corset, but the method is basically the same for any lacing technique.
STEP ONE - LOOSEN THE LACES
Untie the bow at the waist and pull the horizontal laces to slacken them. If you have very long laces in your corset you may not need to open the lacing gap fully - however, you will require a significant gap in the laces to put it on. No matter what type of corset you are wearing, if you can fasten up the busk without undoing the laces, it's too big for you. |
STEP TWO - CLOSE THE BUSK
Wrap the corset around your body with the lacing panel at the back. Grasp the bottom of the busk and close the SECOND clasp up. This can be tricky for first-timers, but you will get the hang of it! Next, grasp the busk above the closed clasp and gently 'hinge' the corset closed, closing each clasp in turn. Finish by closing the bottom clasp. Settle the corset's waist on your waist by tugging it up or down. |
STEP THREE - CINCH IN
Reach behind you and find the vertical loops at the waist, and start pulling. You may need to move your hands and start pulling at the crosses at the top of the corset, working back down to the waist. Then move to the bottom, and pull each cross up to the waist. If you've never laced yourself into a garment before, this can be tricky. Use a mirror if you need to, and think of it a little like lacing up a shoe: pull the main laces, and tug on the crosses to close ones preceding them if necessary. |
GENERAL NOTES & EXTRAS
REMOVING YOUR CORSET
Never, ever attempt to undo the busk without first releasing the lacing. Not only will it be extremely difficult, you risk damaging the busk. Instead, undo the bow at the waist and slacken the laces by pulling on the crosses - like you would undo a shoe. Keep loosening the laces until you can easily unclasp the busk.
For Corsets with zips - some corsets, such as those designed for burlesque, may have a zip for quick removal. This could be useful for those who feel they may need to remove their corset very quickly for any reason. If you are having a corset made to order, you can have a zip placed in any seam for such use, but please not that most zips are not strong enough to use in waist training corsets. Either way, if you're removing a zipped corset without undoing the laces, undo the zip in one swift, smooth, fluid motion to avoid putting undue stress on the teeth.
- NEVER tie your laces around your waist - although it may be tempting, as it seems easier to fasten, don't tie your laces around your waist. The laces can create pressure points and friction, and may wear through the bone channels at the waist, and damage your corset irreparably.
- If your corset has a closed front - you will require very long laces! Open the lacing gap as much as possible and pull the corset on over your head, then continue as normal.
- If your corset has a lace-up front - loosen both sets of laces as far as they will go and put the corset on over your head. Tighten the front laces fully and tie off. Continue as normal.
- If your corset has swing hooks - wrap the corset around your body with the laces at the back, and fasten the swing hooks by hooking the circular loop of the hook side over the corresponding post on the post side. Swing the hook around and through the hole on the post. Do this for all hooks. Note: the hooks should fasten downwards, and usually close right over left like a conventional busk.
- If your corset has lacing gaps on any other panel - put corset on as normal and close the secondary lacing gaps before closing the back, as you would for a corset with a lace-up front.
REMOVING YOUR CORSET
Never, ever attempt to undo the busk without first releasing the lacing. Not only will it be extremely difficult, you risk damaging the busk. Instead, undo the bow at the waist and slacken the laces by pulling on the crosses - like you would undo a shoe. Keep loosening the laces until you can easily unclasp the busk.
For Corsets with zips - some corsets, such as those designed for burlesque, may have a zip for quick removal. This could be useful for those who feel they may need to remove their corset very quickly for any reason. If you are having a corset made to order, you can have a zip placed in any seam for such use, but please not that most zips are not strong enough to use in waist training corsets. Either way, if you're removing a zipped corset without undoing the laces, undo the zip in one swift, smooth, fluid motion to avoid putting undue stress on the teeth.
HOW TO PUT LACES IN A CORSET
Corsets from The Little Blue Gem come ready-laced. However, you should learn how to re-lace your corset yourself as these can wear out faster than the rest of the garment due to wear and tear.
All corsets should be laced with one continuous lace. Generally speaking, I use a 4 or 5 metre lace for underbusts, and anywhere between 6 and 8 metres for an overbust, depending on the length of the back and how many eyelets it has. You can buy cotton 'shoelace' style laces that come with metal tips, called aglets, or you can use ribbon.
Always start by finding the middle of your lace. I find it helps to tie a loose knot here to keep your place, as you will be able to see in the following images. You can lace from the bottom or from the top; I generally lace top to bottom so that the ends of the laces are tied off at the bottom. I also tend to use the 'chevron' lacing technique as I prefer the look of it,
CHEVRON STYLE
This type of lacing can help to control bowing of the bones at the back and keep them straight - particularly helpful for those with a very arched back or a curvy bottom! Always start from underneath the corset, bringing the laces up through the first eyelets. Then take the left lace and thread it UP through the second eyelet on the right - and right lace up through the second eyelet on the left. Continue to the waist, always bringing your laces up through the eyelets from underneath, left first, then right, to keep a neat pattern. Create loops at the waist. After the waist, thread the laces DOWN through the eyelets instead of up. When you read the end, tie off, and neaten the laces. There is an excellent video tutorial on this method, which also includes the inverted bunny ear loops. |
LOOPS ONLY METHOD / ARMY LACING
This style produces the vertical 'bunny ears' loops all the way down the corset. This method ends up very flat, which can be good when you want to hide your corset under clothes. You can create this look by starting with your laces under the corset, bringing them up and over like you would to create the vertical loop, and then forming a cross inside the corset. The corset is then tied as usual at the middle loop. This shoelace guide and this video from Lucy's Corsetry show a visual guide. |
EUROPEAN STRAIGHT LACING
Popularised by French corsetieres, hence the name, this method of lacing produces a series of straight lines between the eyelets, for the full length of the corset. Start with the laces on the outside of the corset, going down into the first eyelets. Bring the left lace across and up through the second eyelet on the right, then straight across to go down through the second eyelet on the left. Bring the right lace UNDER this last straight piece, and thread it up through the third eyelet on the left. Bring it across and thread it down through the third eyelet on the right. Continue this way until you reach the waist, where you should then make your vertical bunny ear loops. Continue to the end of the corset and tie off. This shoelace guide shows a diagram for this method - though bare in mind that you need to include a vertical loop at the waist for easier fastening of a corset - and this video is a visual guide. |